BREAN DOWN
Somerset, England
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Brean Down, Somerset, England         OS Map Grid Ref: ST289590
 The County of Somerset
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Flora

The geology of Brean Down and its maritime climate profoundly influence the plant life on the Down which includes several rare species. The soils of the steep and rocky southern slopes and cliffs are thin while those of the gentler northern slopes is deeper with pockets of sand deposited by the wind.

The white rock rose is the most conspicious plant of the thin calcareous sols of the southern slopes in the early summer. Only encountered at two other sites in the British Isles, it is at the northern limit of its range here.

The Somerset hair grass (Koeleria vallesiana vallesiana) is another rareity, restricted to the Mendips in England. Others are the inconspicious dwarf sedge which flowers early inthe spring and goldilocks which is a late-flowering species.

The exposure of the Down to the wind and salt spray restricts trees and shrubs to low-growing and wind-swept elder, hawthorn and privet although more species such as sycamore and yew can be found growing on the south side near Brean Down Farm.

Most common amongst the grasses of the Down is sheep's fescue. Growing through the calcareous turf are many commoner species; cowslips flowering in the spring; bird's-foot trefoil, field scabious, St john's wort, salad burnet, wild thyme and wood sage in the summer.

Taller grass, such as at the eastern end of the Down, provides conditions for common and dwarf mallow, common storksbill and herb Robert.

The deepr and more acid soils of the northern slopes supports wild strawberry, bracken and bramble. The spread of the latter have to be controlled to prevent them from smothering the smaller plants.

Pockets of wind-deposited sand provide the acid conditions required by the bell heather or fine-leaved heath.

The foot of the Down is the province of such maritime species as the thrift with its pink clusters of blooms in the early summer. Sea carrot is found on the lower slopes while rock clefts shelter the spleenwort. The rock samphire which grows at the foot of the cliffs was once the raw material for a local cottage industry; cooked and pickled it was sent to be sold at inland markets.

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The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) leased Brean Down as a bird sanctuary between 1911 and 1952.

The local ornithologist Harry Cox lived on Brean Down during the RSPB's tenure, studying and caring for the birds.  

The Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus) nested on the down until 1947 and may very occassionally be seen hunting over it.

Ravens nested in the old quarry at the east end of the Down until 1973.

Many species can be found on Brean Down, some are resident throughout the year, others are summer or winter visitors. Other species may be seen on the Down during the spring and autumn migrations using the Down as a refuge.

Year-round residents include the great and the blue tit, linnets, meadow pipit and the sky-lark. Species nesting on the cliffs include crows, jackdaws, collared and stock doves. Kestrels (Falco tinnunculus) nest on the cliffs and can also be seen hunting over them. The rock pipit breeds in small numbers at the foot of the cliffs.

Early in the 20th century, large numbers of scaup and shelduck bred in the dunes at Brean and Berrow. Small flocks of mallard and shelduck can still be seen roosting on the cliffs or on the mud-flats. Waders at the edge of the water include curlews, dunlins, oystercatchers and redshanks.

Curlews may be found in the meadows near the Down and golden plovers and lapwings winter there. Other winter birds are black redstarts, bramblings, fieldfares and redwings.

Earliest of the spring arrivals are the house martins and swallows which arrive in March and April. swifts in May, as well as blackcaps, chiffchaffs, wheatears and whitethroats as well as other small warblers.

No seabirds nest on the Down although herring gulls and lesser black-headed gulls breed offshore on Steep Holm, as do small numbers of cormorants. Gannets visitfrom their colonies off the south coast of Wales and fulmar petrels can also be seen.

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The Down is rich in insect life, including butterflies. While some, such as ladybirds, red admirals, silver moths and tortoiseshells visit during their annual migration,many species are resident and typical of calcareous habitats. These include the common blue butterfly, the marbled white and the meadow brown. Other species, such as the chalkhill blue whose caterpillar feeds solely on horseshoe vetch, are less numerous.

A typical downland species is the bloody-nosed beetle (so-named because of the red fluid released from its mouth when it is handled). More often heard stridulating in the grass than seen are a variety of grasshoppers.

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Mammals

The most obvious mammals on Brean Down are the rabbits which, if they are not seen, crop the grass short. These rodents were introduced by the Normans as a source of fresh meat in winter and they have been encouraged since the middle ages by the building of artificial warrens known as "pillow-mounds". These small creatures were of such importance in the medieval economy that they are sometimes mentioned in documents of the time, the earliest such reference here dating from 1361.

A variety of small mammals such as field-mice, hedgehogs, shrews and voles are nocturnal. They provide much of the diet of foxes and weasels. The foxes often occupy disused rabbit burrows which they adapt. The hills which they leave in their search for worms betray the presence of moles. Badgers search for worms, beetles and fruit on the Down.

A few goats are allowed to live on the rocky slopes of the Down.

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